Why Autumn Is the Start of Spring

There is a quiet satisfaction in planting something you will not see flower for months. While the borders are collapsing and the last of the dahlias are blackening with the first frosts, you can be tucking bulbs into the soil that will carry the garden through to March. Winter bulbs are among the best value plants you can grow in the UK: cheap, undemanding, and utterly reliable once they are in the ground.

The trick is timing. Bulbs need a spell of cold to break dormancy and trigger root growth, but they also need enough warmth left in the soil to get settled before the hard weather arrives. For most of the country, September to early November is the sweet spot. Snowdrops, which are technically bulbs but behave more like small perennials, do best planted while still "in the green" — that is, lifted and moved shortly after flowering, though dry bulbs bought in autumn will still establish if planted promptly.

Choosing Bulbs That Earn Their Space

Planting a handful of everything is tempting, but a little planning gives a much better display. Think about succession: which flowers will open first, and what will follow them.

• Snowdrops (Galanthus nivalis) are the earliest to appear, often pushing through snow in January. They look best naturalised in grass or under deciduous shrubs, in generous drifts rather than tidy rows.
• Crocuses are the cheerful ones, opening wide in any weak sunshine. Crocus tommasinianus is the most reliable for naturalising, while the larger Dutch types give brighter colour in containers.
• Dwarf daffodils such as Narcissus 'Tête-à-Tête' are perfect for pots and small borders, reaching around 15–20cm. They are less likely to be flattened by wind than the tall varieties.
• Early daffodils like Narcissus 'February Gold' bridge the gap between the crocuses and the main daffodil season, bringing a proper splash of yellow when little else is out.
• Winter aconites (Eranthis hyemalis) are worth adding if you have damp, shaded ground — their buttercup-yellow flowers sit above neat ruffs of green.

Buy bulbs that are firm and heavy for their size, with no soft patches or mould. Cheap mixed bags can be a false economy; named varieties cost very little more and give a far more predictable result.

Getting the Ground Right

Almost every spring bulb fails for the same reason: wet, heavy soil that rots the bulb before it can root. Drainage is everything. On clay, dig in plenty of well-rotted organic matter and a handful of horticultural grit per planting hole, or plant on a slight ridge so water runs away.

Most bulbs are happy in sun or light shade. Snowdrops and aconites will cope with quite deep shade under trees, which is useful, since that ground is often bare in late winter anyway. The one thing to avoid is a spot that sits waterlogged through the winter.

How Deep, How Many, How Far Apart

A simple rule of thumb is to plant bulbs at roughly three times their own depth. For crocuses, that means about 7–8cm; for daffodils, 10–15cm; for snowdrops, 8–10cm. Set them pointy end up, though bulbs will generally right themselves if you get it wrong.

Spacing matters more than most people expect. Crowded bulbs compete for nutrients and flower poorly the following year. As a guide:

• Crocuses: 7–10cm apart, in groups of at least 20.
• Snowdrops: 10cm apart, planted in drifts of 25 or more.
• Dwarf daffodils: 10–15cm apart in containers, 15cm in borders.
• Larger daffodils: 15–20cm apart, in clumps of five to seven.

Odd numbers and informal groupings always look more natural than straight lines. If you want a meadow effect in grass, scatter the bulbs by hand and plant them exactly where they land.

Pots, Layers and a Little Protection

Containers are a brilliant way to bring spring colour right up to the door, where you will actually see it. Use a loam-based compost rather than a light multipurpose mix, add grit for drainage, and make sure there are plenty of holes in the base. Raise pots onto feet so they do not sit in a puddle all winter.

You can fit far more into a pot by layering. Put the largest, latest-flowering bulbs at the bottom — daffodils, for example — cover with compost, then add a middle layer of tulips or hyacinths, then the smallest and earliest, such as crocuses, near the surface. The result is a pot that keeps performing for weeks.

Squirrels, mice and voles are the main hazards. Firm the soil after planting, cover pots with a layer of grit or chicken wire, and avoid leaving loose, disturbed soil as a calling card. A sprinkle of chilli powder or garlic granules can help, though nothing is completely foolproof. If squirrels are a serious problem in your area, pots are easier to defend than open ground.

Looking After Them So They Come Back

Once planted, bulbs need very little. Water them in if the autumn is dry, then largely leave them alone. A mulch of compost over the bed will help, but keep it away from direct contact with the bulbs.

After flowering, resist the urge to tidy too quickly. The leaves are the bulb's solar panels, and cutting them back while still green starves next year's flowers. Wait at least six weeks, until they have yellowed and flopped, before removing them. If the look offends you, plant them behind later-emerging perennials such as hardy geraniums or Japanese anemones, which will hide the fading foliage just as it becomes untidy.

A light feed with a general-purpose fertiliser as the leaves die back helps the bulb build reserves. Left undisturbed, most of these will multiply year on year, so a modest planting this autumn becomes a proper colony within three or four seasons.

There are few things more cheering than the first snowdrop nodding in a cold January wind. A couple of hours spent planting now will reward you with exactly that — and with every spring after it.